We carried a tent, which was used once

It's just that he didn'tunderstand a single word for nearly two hours, especially the bitabout an apocalyptic end to the world in the next three years thatwas explained to him days later. Tomas used to work for a bank inMadrid. People travel along the Cami no every day of the year. The mostpopular time is summer, with the peak occurring each year aspilgrims hobble to reach Santiago on St James' Day, which is July25. When that day falls on a Sunday, as it will in 10, numbersare massively boosted from the average of ,000 who begin thepilgrimage each year. Every day in summer about 100 people begin their pilgrimage fromSt Jean. You can travel at any pace, but there is a fairly settimetable of large towns that draw the majority . So familiar facesreappear along the way - greeting you in bars, passing you ontrails, snoring like bulls in the bunkroom. Unfortunately, our lack of a European language cut into thepower of our connections. Instead, we gave them nicknames: Gerrythe Under-prepared Irishman - carrying less for a month than mostkids lug to school every day - and our little French friend, theEwok! And here comes French Guy With Low Nipples. Our oldest companion is a Spanish man in his 60s who has walkedthe Camino three times: (He Likes) Beer For Breakfast. With haltingSpanglish and effusive hand gestures, we find out that BFB is atrain driver from Seville. You should carry no more than kilograms on the Camino -removing everything except a toothbrush, change of clothes and rainjacket. We carried a tent, which was used once. It weighed only 1.8kilograms, but that is like carrying the White Pages from Melbourneto Adelaide so that you can check a number. If you walk the last 100 kilometres, or cycle the last 0, youare eligible for the compostella, an official certificate thatrecords your achievement. Rosetta Stone Arabic The compestella is allegedly a good thing to pack your CV with,meaning that the final section of the Camino is busy, with localstudents and time-poor pilgrims jamming the experience into a fewdays. We reached Santiago in 24 walking days - potentially a newrecord in the B-category of Transport-Assisted Melbourne-basedCatholicJewish Duo. Santiago's soaring cathedral was a joyous anti-climax. It'sbeautiful, but after walking that far it didn't feel like thegraduation day we had expected. For the three days before we weresurrounded by eucalyptus trees; the more it smelt like home, themore I wanted to be back in Australia. A further 90-kilometre walk brings you to Finisterre,traditionally known as the end of the world. It's a tiny fishingvillage with nothing to do but eat calamari, drink beer, and swimin the frigid Atlantic. Watching the sun extinguish itself into the sea, we realised howhappy we were that we had the chance to walk the Camino. Perhapsthat's the reason we did it: we had the chance. Walking throughtowns, you could see people getting on with their lives - takingtheir kids to school, heading to the bar to see friends, parking onthe footpath and going for a drink. Maybe we're all heading towards something, we thought, openingthe eighth beer of the day and downing an anti-inflammatory pill -but the Camino gives you the chance to walk a bit closer for awhile. Shirley would be proud. Fast facts Getting there: Qantas flies to London from$1922. Ryanair flies to Biarritz (France) from $5 and there aretrains to St Jean Pied de Port. Getting around: Local buses are cheap andpunctual, taxis are plentiful. Staying andor eating there: It's hard to eat badly in Spain.The Rioja wine region is rightly world-famous. Visas: Australian passport holders can stay inFrance and Spain for three months (each) without a visa.

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